A look on the inside of the 1960s Western-style jeans I made last week. I'm always more interested in the inside than the outside, as it says a lot about the construction of the jeans.

#Sewing #Jeans #Denim #SelvedgeDenim #RawDenim #WesternJeans #SelfMadeJeans #HomeMadeJeans #EurekaJeans #ForOver30Years #JustAHobby #NotForSale

I finally had a bit of time for sewing. An 1870s-type denim jacket, or "blouse", as this type of garment was called in those days. The pattern and construction are very different from denim jackets made in later periods.

#rawdenim #denimjacket #selfmadevintage #sewing #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

Taking measurements of my newly made sateen jacket before giving it a first soak. The size is calculated based on a shrinkage of 10% along the warp and 4% along the weft, so I hope the final size and proportions come out as intended.

#sateen #selvedgesateen #kibata #loomstate #shrinkage #westernerjacket #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

The finished off-white non-bleached sateen jacket. It is based on a design that was commonly used in the 1960s, in particular by store brands like JC Penney’s.

#sateen #selvedgesateen #kibata #loomstate #westernerjacket #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

How to make keyhole button holes that look like they were done on an industrial button hole machine, but using only a domestic zigzag sewing machine.

Check out the video on Loops:
https://loops.video/v/5aZv9dqIQg

#keyhole #buttonhole #selfmadejeans #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

Attaching the linen patch using a peculiar method commonly seen in the 1870s-1890s.

Check out the video on Loops:
https://loops.video/v/593ZVxvaNU

#selfmadevintage #linenlabel #linenpatch #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

1870s-type waist overalls.
Sewing the outseam with a double row of stitches. To avoid having to go "through the tunnel" multiple times, the outseams are done before the inseam, which is the opposite of the usual order on most jeans.

#selfmadevintage #outseam #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

Sewing the dart stitches on the pocket corners on a pair of 1870s-type waist overalls. During the period 1873-1890, only Levi’s could use rivets as they had patented their use, so other brands came up with inventive ways to reinforce their garments. This is what makes this period so fascinating! My video on Loops shows how this is sewn: https://loops.video/v/4WgdLd7Gnk #selfmadejeans #dartstitch #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

Sewing the decorative stitching on an 1870s-type back pocket. The stitching is not only decorative, but also keeps the reinforcement lining of the pocket in place. To see how I sew this, check out my video on Loops: https://loops.video/v/4VLimJqcmf #waistoverall #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

The front panels. A lot of store brands made this type of jacket in the 1960s, but mostly in blue denim. The most famous is probably JC Penney’s Foremost jacket.

This is about how far I can go with my machines here in Osaka. I'll complete this next time I go back home to Tokyo, where I have my double-needle chainstitch machine.

#sateen #selvedgesateen #kibata #loomstate #westernerjacket #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

Something new!

#sateen #selvedgesateen #kibata #westernerjacket #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale

The difference in shrinkage between the denim and the pocket bag fabric creates this beautiful pattern on the inside edge of the front pocket.

#selfmadejeans #pocketbag #denim #shrinkage #eurekajeans #forover30years #justahobby #notforsale